So today we start the ride of four rivers, the Castlereagh, the Barwon, the mighty Darling and finish on the Murray. This will be a supported ride with two four wheel drive vehicles, a camper trailer to cart gear and the trusty Mongrel bike trailer. The main ride group have ridden right around Australia so this ride will satisfy the curiosity that is stimulated when you ride through Augathella, Tambo, Chinchilla, Dalby, Warwick and all of those places on the Great Dividing Range. How could all of these waterways, so far apart drain to the Murray and flow into the sea in South Australia. We are about to go and have a closer look.
The ride team is:
Phil and Annette Stewart
Craig and Dennise Sorensen
Alan Moyle
Ross Nugent
Kyle Walton
Maurie Doughin
Tony Farnham
Billy Metcalfe
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The route is pretty simple, just follow the Castlereagh River until we find Barwon then the Darling River, then follow it until we meet the Murray River. Most of it is flat and we can't avoid a fair bit of tar, particularly in the early days. But there is a fair stretch of gravel in a few spots.
June 13 2014 Coonabarabran to Binnaway 35 ks Exchange Hotel
June 14 2014 Binnaway to Gilgandra 100 ks Tattersall's Hotel
June 15 2014 Gilgandra to Coonamble 110 ks Commercial Hotel
June 16 2014 Coonamble to Walgett 117 ks Coolabah Motel
June 17 2014 Walgett to Brewarrina 140 ks Beds on the Barwon
June 18 2014 Brewarrina to Bourke 107 ks Port of Bourke Hotel
June 19 2014 Bourke to Louth 128 ks Trilby Station
June 20 2014 Rest Day Trilby Station
June 21 2014 Louth to Tilpa 55 ks Kallara Station
June 22 2014 Tilpa to Wilcannia 145 ks Wilcannia Motel
June 23 2014 Wilcannia to Menindee 155 ks Burke & Wills Motel
June 24 2014 Rest Day Burke& Wills Motel
June 25 2014 Menindee to Pooncarie 126 ks Telegraph Hotel
June 26 2014 Pooncarie to Mildura 158 ks Grand Hotel Mildura
Day 1 Friday June 13th 2014 Transit to Coonabarabran then ride to Binnaway.
The logistics of getting a team of 12, bikes and all our gear out to Coonabarabran have been interesting, but they worked and we arrive at Coonabarabran , take lunch and we are on the bikes by 1.30. Its just a 35 k run so we all just bump along, have a chat and enjoy. It took just 20 ks of the tour for someone to start talking about a coup. Farnham as tour Captain is a new phenomenon, will he last? The Chinaman is snipping at Farnham already, getting under his skin. Tony slips to the back and sulks.
Tony is a tough old dog, he's been right around Australia with us and never gives in. His riding and running marathons are legendary. And he is 68 years old so it's extraordinary to see him grinding away all day. He has a bit of trouble getting his clothing choices right and will probably ride in sandals and shorts with a short sleeve ride shirt, despite it being the middle of winter in the outback, he's a crazy man. His only weakness is red wine, always interesting in the pub. And this tour he is captain, for the time being at least.
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Annette is planning to have a ride every day and today she gets in the last 20 with us, its good to see. She's on a nice little BH carbon bike, it will suit this country well.
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Back in the pub everyone is relaxed, having a chat to the few locals that roll in. Dennise is picking up. Farnham drowns his sorrows , sipping beers and contemplating red. He cracks and goes to the red wine, guzzling gob full's of Cab Merlo like it was his last drink. This could turn ugly.
Our dinner was great and very reasonable, we enjoy each others company, laugh some more and turn in. Tiny footsteps are heard in the lane way during the night and a strange roaring call from our nervous captain, Tony howls at the moon.
All up a great day, and a great night. The tour has started. But overnight rain has us nervous in our beds, what will tomorrow bring.
Day 2 Saturday June 14 2014 Binnaway to Gilgandra 100 ks
Breakfast in the beer garden sets up the day, its overcast, threatening rain and coldish. Most of us are dressed for the conditions, not Tony "I'll tell you when it's cold" becomes his famous statement.
So we ride, on a lumpy track out towards the south west. There is actually a fair bit of climbing, long slow drags that make you work a bit. Farnham is licking his wounds up the back, The Chinaman is trying to cheer him up , its hilarious. But the rain is threatening as we head towards morning tea at Mendooran. The country around us is pretty good, some new crops, sheep and cattle. We are pretty strung out along the road, and gather up in a park and enjoy soup, cakes and biscuits, the support crew have done it again.
We have another 50 ks after our stop so we are back in the saddle, cranking along on the Castlereagh Highway. Billy put in a solid 30 with us and then Annette gets back on for the last 20 again, nice stuff. We pull into the Tattersall's Hotel, shake hands and tuck in to a bar b que. As we toast the day, Farnham is strangely quiet, he's off the drink he says.
Again a walk around town is interesting, its a very tidy place, clean and well organised. But its strangely deserted, there's nobody about. Back in the pub its also quiet, except for us. But as the sun sets the place livens up, everyone in town has been at Saturday sports at Warren, kids, juniors and seniors, football and netball all travel over for the day and return to the pub for a night out. There is a real community feel about it, something that brings everyone together. And, other sides that travel through Gil for their Saturday sport call in as well. Things are different in the bush.
Nugo is on for his first tour with this crew. He can ride a bit and fits in easy with everyone and enjoys an afternoon off the bike. He will probably beat most to bed each night, but you need rest out here. He's just a few weeks from retirement so we might see more of him on the bike in years to come.
Talking to locals about where we are headed to, you see a few raised eyebrows, Our chosen track is notorious for either foot deep bull dust or it's closed because it becomes a sticky bog hole. The story is consistent from them all, we are mad to go out there, we'll see.
So we enjoy the local hospitality, talk some rubbish and go to bed.
Day 3 Sunday June 15. Gilgandra to Coonamble 100 ks Ride Time 4 hours 32 Road Time 5 hours 30 Max 35 Average 22
We had a great stay in Gilgandra but its time for us to ride. Everyone is up early after the bathroom incident last night. Billy took a fall and was found prone, naked and unconscious in the bathroom. Farnham heard him go down but just rolled over, Phil ran to his rescue, finding him out to it, he stepped over him for a leak then administered first aide. Diagnosis concussion, he failed a series of cognitive tests before being ruled out of riding until his fuzzy brain has cleared. (anyone want to buy a bike)
But that was during the night and by daylight Billy was back on duty with Moz and Annette preparing breakfast.
So the riders mount and ride into the cold , cold morning, mist became rain and a miserable ride took us out of town. Everyone got their clothing choices wrong, but Tony in sandals and short nicks was just stupid. So for 50 ks to morning tea at Gulargambone we all suffered, it was hard to get any joy from the journey. But you know what to expect when you sign up, the unexpected.
Pulling into morning tea most of us were shivering so soup and cakes, tea and bread was great. You recover quickly provided you get warm.
Back on the bikes things cleared a bit and the temperature went up just enough for you to have a bit of fun on the final 50. Annette got on for 22 at the end and PB'd, well done. Finishing together on a high note after seeing roos and emu and some birds on the roadside made you want to come back tomorrow.
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Sleepy Coonamble is our home, the Commercial Hotel. A hot shower, lunch and a walk around town is an education in rural life, country towns struggle. Kyle goes for a short pub crawl to 2 other pubs and is back pretty quickly. Others munch on a chicko roll, good salty, fatty food.
But in the pub the fire is on, some have a sleep, others watch the footy, Jack gets acquainted with the publican. Everyone musters for dinner and the usual crap is shared around. But there are some tired people amongst us and most wander to bed. But Jack stays and puts the publican to bed, another red wine mistake. He rooms with Farnham tonight who was seen shortly after the late night roaring in the toilet, dragging his blanket behind him like Linus out of Peanuts, " I've had enough of that ratbag"
So day 3 ends like many others, tired riders enjoying their sleep.
Day 4 June 16. Coonamble to Walgett 117 ks, Ride Time 4 hours 42 Road time 5 hours 40 , Max 38 Average 25.1
Everyone is now well settled into the tour routine and better acquainted with their bikes. Last night was a nice evening, even if some paid the price of a red wine indulgence. Time off the bike is always dangerous.
The support crew are at it again, a great brekkie, boiled eggs on toast, cereal and hot tea, perfect. Then we are off, hitting the road in sunshine and dressed properly, except the sandalled fool. Someone pushed the play button and the pace ticked up to 30 kph for 50 ks. The old farts at the back disappeared and sulked across the plains while the front took 5 k turns and loved it. There was some sooking at morning tea in the bush so we backed off, welcomed Billy for 30 then Annette for the final 25, it was so good to share some road time with them.
You really appreciate how lucky you are to ride with this mob when you pull up on the roadside for morning tea and have your choice of sao's with cheese and beetroot relish, biscuits, hot soup, tea, coffee and your chair is set up for you to relax on. You rest, eat and strip off a layer or two, put it in the truck in your day bag and top up your water. It makes a long tour so much easier, the support crew are angels.
At 1.20 we pull into camp smiling and enjoying what was a great day. The routine clicks in, empty the cars, sort washing, (Dennise's turn today) and have a shower. Maurie, Billy and Annette have a Bar B Que on and life is good. As I am typing this I can hear the rubbish getting talked, the laughing and stirring in the courtyard. The team is not so tired today.
Walking around town is always an opportunity to get a taste of a town. These places get poor publicity at times but again it's a tidy little placed, the few locals we meet are chatty, so you need to form your own opinion of these place, based on what you find.
Some of the crew find the RSL for a beer and we all meet at a Chinese place for dinner. Phil is in charge of the esky so he restocks with a range of supplies to see us through the next few days, hope he gets it right.
After dinner we wander back to our Motel and turn in, a bit more rest wont hurt.
Day 5 June 17. Walgett to Brewarrina 140 ks Ride Time 6 hours 22 , Max 30 Average 22.1 Road Time 8 hrs
Everyone enjoyed Walgett , a nice Chinese dinner in town with Billy as entertainment. We had warm beds, hot showers and good company, you cant ask for more than that.
Out of bed on a clear cold morning, breakfast and hit the road. Its frigid. The scenery has deteriorated, sparse unpleasant country, emu, roos, some sheep and very few cattle. Not much agriculture either. The first leg of 55 ks to morning tea was just cold but you push and endure.
After some mechanicals and some laughs we ride again. Some struggle into the wind and some slow tar, grin and bear it. Dennise gets on the front for more than her share today, she is a strong tidy rider. She's also great company on and off the bike. She likes beer and tar. And Craig is just strong, he's younger than most of us but all the same he will always be strong, he trains a bit. He also slides back every now and then and has a chase, its not necessary but he puts himself through it. He's also handy fixing bikes. So they are both good fun , good riding companions. Maybe one day they will move to Kurri.
So today we just chew up 140, try to eat right and get fluid right. Manage your clothing choices and let a bit of air in whenever you overheat. Ross and Kyle had PB's today, well done. These records won't last long out here.
The support crew are magnificent, not just in the camp. They now join us on the road for part of the last leg every day. Billy put in a PB of 35 on the front today, he winged a bit but he did it.
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Our home is Beds on the Barwon, new units out of town on the Barwon River, very, very nice accommodation, maybe the best country digs we have had anywhere in Australia. Our hosts have started a camp fire for us, so we grab a beer and get warm. They serve us a baked dinner and a special night unfolds. Dennise gets relaxed, real relaxed and joins the stargazers for a marvellous night on the river. The red runs out and most go to bed, but not everyone.
Day 6 June 18. Brewarrina to Bourke 107 ks Ride Time 4 hours 2 minutes, Max 38 Average 24.6 Road Time 5 hrs
We wake to a clear, cold morning on the Barwon. Its cold but we are prepared, layered up with clothes and arm and leg warmers. On the bikes and away again for a day on the track. Its just 1 degree when we pull out of Bre, the sun is getting up and eager riders get up on the pedals. The country has improved, it looks much more productive, it makes riding easier if you enjoy the country. We hammer the first 55 and smile. Sitting on a chair in the scrub having soup and biscuits is pretty good. The next leg is equally enjoyable, we also had Annette along for 25 and Billy for 30, its nice.
We have seen a bit of wildlife so far but today more emu than before, and a few red kangaroos for a change, still lots of greys but more reds as well. The red's have a majestic, rhythmic lope to them, they catch your eye.
We pull into Bourke at 1 PM, a smooth , smooth day on the bike. Our lunch by the river in the sun is excellent. There are more tourists at Bourke, we are a bit of a curiosity on the riverside.
A short ride around the corner takes us to our home, the Port of Bourke Hotel. Some of us have stayed here before on a ride and it holds fond memories. It's State of Origin night so most are cautious about having a beer too early, don't want to miss the game. So the customary walk around town takes us to coffee shops, cake shops and local historic points. But the pub draws us back, we gather and meet the locals. Dinner is another extravaganza, country hospitality is hard to beat.
Jack has been on a lot of our big rides. He lovers the front and rides strongly every day. He can't resist a challenge from Craig each day, despite getting a flogging. But he enjoys it, almost as much as putting publicans to bed.
We take our seats by the TV. The game gets started, we cheer NSW home and go to bed.
Day 7 June 19. Bourke to Trilby Station. 128 ks, Ride Time 5 hours 34, Road time 7 hours, Max 32, Average 23.
A post state of origin morning sees most riders bright eyed and ready to ride, a few are a bit dusty, stooped shoulders as they mount their bikes. Its probably the mildest morning on tour, cold but very clear and sunny. Some are a bit apprehensive about the gravel days ahead, they start today so what will they deliver. Locals have been laughing when we tell them where we are going, but its there to be done. I assure the team that it will be flat and smooth, nobody believes me ???
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Pulling into Trilby Station is the start of something different, it should be good.
The team is in pretty good shape, a few aches and pains, some sore bums but generally tanned and happy faces. A ride tour makes you healthy.
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These rides present unique opportunities to see Australia, everyone has had different life experiences so as we share stories, debate points and tell lies we educate each other.
Day 8 June 20. Rest Day Trilby Station
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In the afternoon we take the station bus for a run around the station, wandering through ruins of old buildings abandon after the paddle steam era or more recently by station changes. Its interesting to peer into history. We find old boilers, farm machinery, a wooden wheeled cart, a wooden roller.
You can't get your head around how busy and vital this river system was at it's peak. The memories seem so distant. But these were the great highways of their time, they opened up Australia and took our wool and wheat to the world. Now the chain of ponds is silent apart from the screeching corellas.
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Back in camp we tidy up, getting ready for tomorrow then enjoy a camp over dinner, lamb and roast vegies, desert then a sit around the fire before we turn in.
Today we miss one of our favourite ride companions, Ross Hayter. He couldn't make this trip, its not the same without Rossco.
Day 9 June 21. Trilby Station to Kallara Station 55 ks Ride Time 2 hours 45, Road Time 3 hours 30, Max 32, Average 21
A rest day does many things. Your body rebuilds and recovers but mentally you also recover, you soak up the opportunity, you get a bit of elation from doing nothing much. You have put 7 days behind you and survived in good shape, we know we only have 5 ride days to get through. Sure things might get difficult down the track but a lot has been put behind us. Your body and your brain are ready to go again.
And we have a short day today so we sleep in a bit just to finish off our recovery. Bacon and eggs for breakfast then ride.
We are on the Darling River Flood plain for the day so we take in the scenery, the wildlife and the big blue sky. Its our warmest day so far, even better. Billy gets on his bike for his usual few ks with us towards the end of the ride. Sadly he gets into a rut and comes down, Dennise couldn't avoid him and rode straight over the top of him. But he is alright, no real damage just Billy moaning and groaning about a few scratches. We finally get him back on, maybe the Cycle Way hero should stick to concrete.
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We pull into Kallara Station and find ourselves in very nice lodge accommodation right on the Darling. A great resting place after a short day.
Kyle Walton is our youngest rider this tour. Kyle rides strongly and is enjoying the outback experience. He's handy with breakdowns and does his sharer on the front. Being younger he's usually up later than most , but that's the advantage of youth. Today he feeds the fire with river red gums and we are all warm.
Again we wander the Station, enjoy the river and laze around in the sun chatting through the afternoon.
Dinner is another extravaganza, outback hospitality is hard to beat. We gather round the huge fire, drink some red wine and go to our beds.
Day 10 June 22. Kallara Station to Wilcannia 144 ks, Ride Time 6 hours 35, Road Time 8 hours, Max 34, Average 22
The experience out here is unique, we ride, we eat well, we sleep well, we enjoy each other. We share breakfast this morning on another beautiful winters day then ride.
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At lunch its 29 degrees, we soak up the sun in the Australian outback, perched on our bike seats.
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A pit fire again tonight, we drift off to our beds and sleep well.
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Day 11 June 23. Wilcannia to Menindee. 155 ks, Ride time 7 hours 43. Road Time 9 hours 40, Max 31, Average 20
Our morning muster goes well, we are fed, cars are packed and we hit the road as the sun gets up. We crack along on tar for 10 ks looking for our turn onto the dirt and the Darling River Run. We get a good 20 k run on a red dirt farm access road. The surface is hard and we pop along through sand hills and flood plain, chatting and happy. Then whack, the wind gets up. Its a brutal cruel head wind. At times in blows us back to 12 kph, it blew Phil and Tony off the back altogether.
It is relentless, you can't escape so you grind away, you learn to pedal on these days. We pull up for a cuppa at 60 ks cowering against the cars, hoping for respite. Fruit and warm custard are a consolation but we must face the music and go back out for another beating.
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At 110 we pull into lunch, ragged but still upright. The support crew probably saved us with food, fuel is everything today. Phil and Tony struggle in last, how hard is it for them on their own.
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We all know that you can't have it all your own way on a tour, today we paid, l hope we are in credit.
Shower, walk to the pub for dinner then bed.
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Day 12 June 24. Rest Day at Menindee
Sleeping in is great, not riding is even better. The team comes to life as it pleases today, the early risers pacing the streets. the relaxed mob, slumbering in their warm beds.
Moyle'y is probably the worst for relaxing. He struggles with inactivity. He has run most of our previous big rides, Perth to Newcastle, Broome to home, Cape York, Darwin, the West Coast, the Centre, Tassie to Tamworth. He's made most of this happen, so taking a back seat and riding shorter days on this tour is a test. But he will adjust and now he has the injured Billy to look after.
Jack has taken Billy to the local Hospital to be checked over. They recommend precautionary X-rays so they are off to Broken Hill for a drive. The rest of us take turns to drive out to Menindee Lakes in the remaining vehicle.
A bloke and his wife wander into town with their 5 camels, asking for directions. They have been walking Australia for 16 months, true explorers. It's just a lazy day. Minindee is a nice little town and worth a stop over.
Tonight we try the second pub for relaxing drinks and dinner. It's busy, friendly an warm. Things liven up as most wander back to the Motel. But others stay and enjoy an evening with the locals.
Day 13 June 25. Menindee to Pooncarie 126 ks, Max 37, Average 21.8, Ride Time 5 hours 43, Road Time 7 hours 20
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Pretty soon we are smiling, enjoying some new scenery. We cruise on hard packed Darling River flood plain, over red sand hills. Our legs take us up and over, along and along. Morning tea at 55 in the mulga, the sun on our backs is a stark contrast to our last ride day. Then another 45 to lunch, things remain sublime.
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Our home is the Telegraph Hotel, built in 1877. Pooncarie is a tidy, green little village of 82 people, proud of it's past and it's present. It is steeped in river trade history, wool and timber. We are lucky, we had to stop, so we get a close up look. Most people would just look out the window of their car and keep driving.
Another pub evening meal together, toasted with red wine and beers. The few locals that are here make you welcome, too welcome perhaps. Some get into bed late again, but hey, it's a holiday.
Day 14 June 26. Pooncarie to Mildura 160 ks, 48 Maximum, 22.5 Average, Ride Time 7 hours 6 minutes, Road Time 8 hours 30
Steak and eggs for breakfast at the pub, this is getting silly. But everyone has a share on our last ride day of this tour. It's been a fantastic trip and we are all pretty pleased with ourselves and our companions as we ride out of this quaint little place, Pooncarrie. You need a reason to stay at these little places, a ride like this gives you fantastic opportunities to see Australia close up.
We roll out together headed for Mildura, our track a ribbon of tar that follows the Darling to the Murray. It's a little bumpy and we lean into a headwind. But we are fit and strong so, just take your turn on the front and eat miles.
The mulga gives way to a bit more agriculture, some successfully sewn crops, some green for a change. Then citrus and grapes. Then Wentworth, on the confluence of two great rivers. We share lunch on the lock and welcome Annette onto her bike for the last 35 ks. She has really come along on this ride, probably the best ride support you could ask for, but now she rides a bit too.
At 4 pm we pull into the Grand Hotel Mildura, another tour successfully complete. Another holiday with good friends, another line on the map of Australia.
For me, this was a very pleasant ride, not too hard, with new territory explored. I shared it with good people and we met some interesting Australians along the way.
This life on the bike is far from over, the only question is where to next.
Sounds like you all had a blast, a great part of Australia .........
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